Floating the Illinois River - Tahlequah, Oklahoma
Stretching some 98 miles from the northwest Arkansas Ozarks to the Arkansas River in Gore, Oklahoma, flows the beautiful spring-fed Illinois River - one of the premier summer destinations for river rats across Oklahoma.
It’s cold in the peak of summer, though not so brutally chilling as the Salina Blue Hole. Even in the D1 drought and endless 100-degree days we were experiencing in 2022, there was a steady stream of gorgeous blue-green to propel partiers and nature lovers alike to their merry destination. In 2023’s much-wetter summer, the current is fast and there are countless areas deep enough to jump in from the steep banks and giant boulders.
Just about every Oklahoma native has countless memories on the crowded Illinois River waters, which shouldn’t be confused with the unrelated Illinois River that actually flows through Illinois.
I didn’t grow up visiting the river. For some reason my parents never did much nature stuff, save for annual trips to Roaring River State Park in Missouri. We didn’t camp anywhere but Roaring River. We didn’t go rafting or hiking. We mostly just went to the beach or Branson.
I’m not positive, because my memory is a tad subpar, but I believe my first trip to the Illinois River was in 2013 on a trip that my friend Jamie organized. I don’t think I went back until 2019 when I made two trips with groups that I only knew a couple of people from. If there’s one thing float trips are good for, it’s making new friends.
Charity had never floated the river until 2021 when we went with our friends Virgil, Jess, Tim, and Nicole.
My 2019 bar crew float trip.
A friend trip in 2021.
A Floating Frat Party
While Oklahoma City and Tulsa have the nightclubs and Stillwater and Norman are the top college towns, they can’t compete with Tahlequah in the summer if you’re looking for a place to party.
The Illinois River isn’t some rural, isolated getaway for nature lovers. It’s a floating frat party. Sure, people bring their kids and float as a family, and not everyone there is drunk. But it’s safe to say a good 75% of the adults are in various stages of inebriation and 75% of the people on the river are between the ages of 18 and 30. It’s not uncommon to see the occasional topless girl or two in search of beads, and shouting/shoving matches are known to turn into fist fights.
Illinois River Float Trip Rules
Rafters approach the New Combs Bridge between Eagle Bluff Resort and Peyton’s Place.
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Few folks kayak and even fewer canoe. The majority of river-goers are in large inflatable rafts that are loaded down with ice chests full of beer. Hard liquor is banned from the river, along with Styrofoam and glass.
State law forbids tying rafts together, though almost everyone out there still does it. The common practice is to untie them before passing by any public access areas to avoid the Grand River Dam Authority. The GRDA is typically posted up at every public access area and operates an airboat in the areas around New Combs Bridge. They’ve also been known to go undercover in kayaks, so breaking any rule at any time comes with a risk.
Children 12 and under must wear a life jacket at all times and all floaters are required to have a vest in arm’s reach at all times. There is no jumping or diving allowed from bridges, but there are plenty of large rocks and rope swings to enjoy. Ice chests cannot be over 48 quarts and must have a bungee or latch.
There are other rules imposed by the float companies, and many tell you not to jump or dive into the river at any point. As if.
Illinois River Public Access
Edmondson Public Access Area
E0690 Rd, Tahlequah, OK 74464
Peavine Hollow Public Access Area
There are several public access areas along the Illinois River for folks with their own floatation devices, but even so, you’ll have to purchase a $1/day permit from the GRDA. Camping is $14/night at the sites that allow it. Some public access beaches don’t allow camping, some don’t allow alcohol, and some are in backwater areas where you wouldn’t want to swim, so do your research.
Here’s a link to the 2019 Illinois River floater’s guide.
Illinois River Outfitters
Arrowhead Resort
Eagle Bluff Resort
Peyton’s Place Resort
There are a surprising number of outfitters along the Illinois River. Here’s a list of your options with links to their websites.
I’ve floated most frequently with War Eagle. It’s $34/person for the long trip, launching at a private access point a little ways north of the Peavine Hollow Public Access Area. The short trip launches at Edmondson, just north of New Combs Bridge, but you only save $4 a person so if you’re not scared of a long haul then it’s better value to start early and make a whole day of it.
Hanging Rock Camp.
War Eagle has a nice resort area with cabins and camping sites, a large store, a pool, and a barbecue restaurant. I’ve only ever used them for floating, however, and have never camped in Tahlequah.
The perk of doing War Eagle’s long trip is you’ll get to float past Hanging Rock Camp. In addition to being a float trip outfitter, they also have a barbecue restaurant and convenience store, making it the perfect place to stop and refill your coolers or grab some hot lunch.
Our First Time Kayaking
Charity and I stay pretty darn busy. I work 60+ hours a week so it’s rare that we have a weekend off to do anything and when we do, it’s usually last minute that we realize we’re free. Such was the case with our 2022 trip to Tahlequah. By the time I realized we could go rafting, all of our friends were busy.
Thus we got to experience our first time kayaking.
All of my prior float trips had been on rafts, except for 2021 when Charity and I went canoeing on the Kings River in Eureka Springs.
We weren’t sure what to expect, or how difficult it would be to keep the kayaks balanced, but neither of us dumped over. I did get stuck on a few underwater trees and didn’t even topple my cooler, which I forgot to bring a bungee for.
The kayaks were super maneuverable and much faster for traveling downstream than the rafts. In fact, we did the long trip in less than six hours despite making several stops to swim.
There are, of course, down sides to kayaking. There’s far less storage and they’re easier to tip over, so I’d imagine you couldn’t get super drunk on a kayak the way rafters do. Then again, I’m sure there’s several people proving me wrong on that river right now.
You also lose the ability to simply jump over the side and make somebody else pilot it while you swim. But I think the trade off is well worth it if you’re not going in a large group and don’t plan on drinking much.
All American Floating in 2023
In July of 2023 Charity and I took another solo trip to kayak the Illinois and this time we decided to give All American a shot. We paid $29/person and launched at about 10:30 on the last trip of the day for the grueling 14-mile float - the longest trip we’ve done.
The 14-mile kayak trip puts in at the No Head Hollow public access point, and it’s a tricky entrance. Experienced kayakers shouldn’t have too much difficulty but novices high a high chance at tipping as the water sits two feet below the edge of the boat ramp and you can’t just scoot out from the shallows like most of the other public access points.
This was our first time floating this portion of the river as War Eagle and most other outfitters start and end their routes upstream of No Head Hollow. One thing we noticed was how private the float was.
There were far fewer people to share the river with since hardly anyone else floats this section of the river, and we started five miles upstream of where the rafts launch, so we had the river to ourselves for much of the journey.
Unfortunately we also both got severe sunburns that blistered after 14 miles in the sun. We did put on sunscreen beforehand, but we also left it in the car instead of bringing it out there with us. Rookie mistake.
If you do this section of the river, keep an eye out for the beautiful bluffs shortly before Cedar Hollow.
Is the Illinois River Worth Visiting?
The Illinois River tends to get a bad rap in some circles due to its status as a party zone, but it really is a beautiful place to visit. Floating on the weekdays will help you avoid the party crowd and get a much more private, natural experience. Doing the longer trip will also give you a few miles of sparser crowds before you get to the hectic areas.
Are there better rivers to float? Sure. But there are few places in Oklahoma where you can rent an affordable raft or kayak and have someone drop you off upstream. And if you want a more natural experience you can always do a kayak before or after the swimming season.
Looking for an Illinois River alternative? Check out the Mountain Fork River in Broken Bow.
Other Things to do in Tahlequah
Following our 2022 float, Charity and I still had plenty of energy and decided to head into town for an early dinner.
We decided to eat at Sam & Ella’s Chicken Palace, which I had heard of before but never been to. We were surprised to discover that it’s a pizzeria, not a chicken joint like the name would indicate. It’s simply decorated with chickens everywhere. The pizza was good, but the service was mediocre and the wait time took forever.
After that we decided to walk around town and almost immediately discovered a nine-hole disc golf course on the NSU campus down the street, and fortunately I had a few loose discs laying around the car. The course is beautiful and not bad, just has a few minor layout issues.
For dessert we visited The Rollie Pollie, which has handcrafted ice cream, shakes, boba tea, popsicles, and more. All in all, I was very impressed with my first visit to Tahlequah and we’re eager to make a full weekend trip next summer!
